It was a perfect start with clear weather (unlike most of my time on the Oregon coast). I succeeded in possibly the world's shortest day of bike touring with about 20km ridden by the end of the day- I did only start at 3pm after a late lunch and a glass of sparkling red, in my defence!
I stayed with a lovely retired couple and their nephew in Pacific City that evening (courtesy of warmshowers.org- a website for bike tourists that open their homes/yards to passing cyclists, check it out). From there on, its been camping in state parks where they have cheap hiker/biker camp sites for $4 a night. They're well maintained, some even supply free popcorn for some unknown reason (perhaps because its delicious??). I've followed Highway 101 which pretty much sticks to the coast for some great views that honestly out-wow most of the Great Ocean Road (sorry diehard Victorians!). But it also brings damp weather (possibly by fault of my own for travelling during this time of year, maybe?) which can be a little deflating. To get to your camp at the end of the day and still be a little damp isn't the best feeling in the world. But a hot shower usually makes up for it.
Crossing into California has been a warm and dry relief (so far). I crossed 4 days ago and its been pretty good ever since, though fog can be a problem. Seriously. You cannot see and cannot be seen. A wonderful example was last friday when I left Crescent City (one of the dingey-er areas of the US) in full, bright sunshine and climbed up a biggish hill into the Redwoods Forest, only to come down the other side, along the coast, and be sitting above an enormous layer of fog- quite heavenly, in every sense of the word. But then as I got closer to the bottom of the mountain, it became obvious its quite dangerous to ride in cos you really can't be seen from a distance. But that's what luck and bike lights are for!
And here I am in Arcata, after a few toasty nights at the Redwoods Hostel- which will close down in January 2010- its an historic building that needs too many repairs :( (http://www.norcalhostels.org/redwoods/). Arcata's a cool university town. Lots of great shops to get good food, and generally a good vibe. It definitely belongs on the West Coast. Still stuck with that flower-power aura from the 70's. I also did my first century of the bike ride so far, getting here (unfortunately a century in kilometre terms [100km] is no way near as impressive as the sort that comes in the 'miles' variety [~160KM]).
Next is a bit of an inland turn, then I'll get on California 1 and hit the coast again, singing my favourite Decemberist's song 'California One' along the way. Then San Fran next week before heading down old South America way, with some tougher legs than previously had 2 weeks ago.
Till then, peace and squirrels.
Also, no update on my bike's christening, I still can't name her/him/it. At this point in time, its the 'duck-truck'. I have a little rubber-ducky companion I have temporarily dubbed 'Eric'. I'll give that a test ride and see how it flies... Though I agree, it doesn't seem fair to re-neg on a name and change it, oh well!
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